How amazing is fashion week at the moment? Us men have many a treat next season, the designers all deserve a big pat on the back, especially these few who, up until now for me, have gone quietly unnoticed. NOT anymore!
Alexis Mabille
Surely the darkest horse of French designers, Alexis hails from a YSL and Dior background so is it any wonder that his autumn winter 2010 collection is so gorgeously put together? He has been criticised in the past for having too big of a collection with not much focus, but from this menswear show, I doubt any of that is true now. Grey is quite clearly his colour du jour (it is actually the hue of the season) and the monochromatic way he uses the colour makes for a collection that is inextricably linked. The wide leg trousers, neck scarves, hats and shirts all scream of Parisian-chic. Amaze. I was slightly confused by the underwear section though. The models looked uncomfortable, as did the straps round their bodies. Hmm!
Juun J
Korean label Juun J are all about tailoring. Whether it's a blazer, a jacket, a coat or a top, it's always cut with precision. Slightly reminiscent of Raf Simons, for autumn winter it's all about elongation, in the arms and body, and zips! There was an undertone of military, and a huge focus on covering the head with hoods, snoods or country and western style hats. The focus of the collection was the few standout pieces in that lovely cerulean blue - I particularly love the parka. The footwear all included buckle detail, and if there was a pocket in sight, they were almost always oversized and heavily zipped.
Salvatore Ferragamo
Save the best till last in this little section me thinks.
Massimiliano Giornetti, menswear designer for the label, really hit a spot with me for the season. Of all the shows so far, this was by far the most visually stunning for me, and I can't really put my finger on why! I think it was a mixture of the dark catwalk and background, the handsome models, and of course, the utter luxuriousness of the clothes. The whole collection had a very earthy, natural feel to it, and in fact Giornetti's inspiration came from "open spaces" and was very much about "a man and his horse". The lighter, neutral tones of tan and cream complimented the darker, calmer hues of green, aubergine and burnt orange. I don't often say this (eh hem!) but I think I need a lot of this collection. The boots were to die for and the huge, almost picnic blanket-sized scarves are just heaven! LOVE IT!