UNCONDITIONAL love — The Very Simon G

You know when someone asks you what essentials you'd pack should you be shipped off to a desert island for a lengthy period of time? Well mine would almost certainly include my new puppy, my biggest pair of sunglasses, possibly some suncream, muesli and yoghurt to get me by (my new thing), my trusty floral Westwood shirt and the entire new collection from UNCONDITIONAL. I'd have to look good amongst the palm trees and sand, and the spring summer collection from the amaze British label would certainly do just that. It all makes me feel warm inside which, I have to say, is very rare with a collection in its entirety.

Philip Stephens knows how to dress a man. For seven years he has been designing menswear that not only fits impeccably but is comfortable, easy, versatile, relaxed and yet still exudes designer quality. His tailoring is always paralleled with a drape here or a funnel neck there and his signature is most definitely the 'hood'. Add a zip or three and you have the perfect UNCONDITIONAL piece. He explains more below about his constant contrasts that appear wonderfully in his work - it's all so deliciously wearable!

The website states that: "UNCONDITIONAL is often mildly androgynous". I have to agree. Some of the spring summer men's collection flutters on the feminine side of masculine. Low cowl necks showing just the right amount of man-cleavage and long, floaty cardigans grace the rails. I always bang on about how men's fashion is delving more and more into women's territory - Philip plays it cool, almost dipping a toe into the romantic-pond.

Above anything else, although the website does reel off a list of celeb admirers (including Brad Pitt, Jude Law and David Beckham no less!), Philip remains humbly and refreshingly flat-footed on such hype, telling me bluntly that "I'm not so keen on all that celeb bullshit".

If you find yourself wondering aimlessly round Selfridges (in any part of the country), head straight for UNCONDITIONAL. You'll soon fall in love.

I was intrigued, and obviously had to find out more. Here's what lovely Philip had to say...

The Very: What would you say is your biggest inspiration when it comes to any collection?

Philip: It varies - sometimes maybe there's a story to tell - other times it starts from no where. Usually each collection picks up from the last one though, even if maybe approaching from a different direction. Nature is without doubt my number one inspiration... more subconsciously than in a planned way. And London streets I guess too. And then I love formality mixed with sportswear, tradition juxtaposed with modernity - usually there's some odd cocktail or fusion of opposites going on in my head.

The Very: Who are your favourite designers?

Philip: Hmm that's difficult. I loved Steven Sprouse in his first round, more for his whole attitude than maybe the whole reality. I still love it's cameo appearance in the movie "Slaves of New York". So fab!

The Very: Apart from your own clothes of course, what do you tend to dress in every day?

Philip: To be honest these days I live in UNCONDITIONAL, very boring hey?! Very occasionally I buy something else but then never wear it. I can get quite obsessed with a certain silhouette and often have four of the same thing and wear the same look like a uniform - until its time for a change and then its onto the next uniform. I think it's good to test drive your own label though, especially in terms of fit and quality.

The Very: It's all about draping. What led you to this? It's quite Westwood is it not?

Philip: Weird, I've never thought I was at all Westwood. Aren't I far more understated? Though I do love drape and cowls and hoods - I love drape set against structure, in a very masculine way of course. A combination of the soft and hard so to speak! I suppose I've always loved something quite 'punk' but done in a refined and understated way. I hate anything too loud or in your face - it bores me in 5 minutes flat and for that reason I generally hate print. I can appreciate it, but I never wear it - it's like tattoos, I'd be so bored of anything after a very short while.

The Very: I personally love clothes with a difference, and I think UNCONDITIONAL gives you the unexpected, but who is your ideal customer?

Philip: Ideal customer? Gods knows! We've been lucky to dress many of my style "idols", for example David Bowie, my most exciting, and that's been very satisfying sometimes, but generally I like someone who buys something and makes it their own... who has their own sense of style.

The Very: Did you always want to design clothes? Tell me how it came about?

Philip: Yes I guess I did, though I came at it very late and slightly around the houses. I did interior design for a number of years and then club promotion and other things. It happened quite organically.

The Very: What is it about the fashion industry that excites you?

Philip: Not much to be honest lol. The industry does not really excite me LOL. Much of the fashion industry is bullshit, no, BUT I really enjoy my job.

The Very: What do you think about size zero and plus size models?

Philip: Life should be a celebration of diversity, and fashion should be a reflection of that. However, without a doubt, clothes often look best on a tall skinny frame. Also they are normally always produced in the same sample sizes and that's a cost issue. I do think there are lots of other things to challenge more than just size though.... no?

The Very: Where do you think men's fashion can go next? We've seen it go quite feminine recently, what are your thoughts on this?

Philip: This whole masculine/feminine thing does not really wash with me, we all started off in a bit of draped fabric, a loincloth then a toga! Men and women's clothing really started off the same. I like the whole relaxing of dress codes though and I do embrace and love androgyny. I guess things will totally merge back to where they started off... eventually.

The Very: Who would be your ideal celeb to dress and why?

Philip: God knows! Who is the most gorgeous influential coolest celebrity? And why is it all about celebrity these days...?

The Very: The spring summer men's collection is gorgeous, it references the American flag and there is some dip-dyeing going on, tell me a bit about it.

Philip: Hmm, I've spent quite a bit of time Stateside recently and I love this twinning of London and New York that's been going on inside my head - it's totally warped of course!

The Very: Zips, hoods and an easy casualness - is that all part of the UNCONDITIONAL identity?

Philip: Very much so. It's totally the identity I go for: easy yet special, comfortable yet sexy, basic yet luxurious. UNCONDITIONAL is basically my collection of luxury basics, things I hope we might actually need and/or want :-)

The Very: What's your favourite piece from the collection?

Philip: For SS2010 hmm... do'ya know what, I love the dip dyed rayon scarves - they are so 'nothing' and yet so special. Put them with anything - just jeans and a white T shirt - and you already have a special outfit!