Matthew Williamson. The name synonymous to any red carpet these days. The man whose creations are known just as much for their colour and attention to detail as they are for their adoration by anyone within a few feet of one of his dresses or coats or separates.
He really needs no introduction. He's a British fashion institution. He's up there with the likes of Galliano, Westwood and Alexander McQueen. He's been nominated three times for Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards - he's obviously doing something right!
I was so pleased to be able to catch up with Mr. Matthew and ask him a few questions. I was in absolute awe of his energy, passion and, most of all, his dress sense. He looked utterly gorge in a jeans, bright printed shirt and cardi combo, and of course a jaunty neck tie - his signature accessory.
Enjoy!
The Very: Can I start by asking what is it about fashion that makes you want to get up every morning?
MW: I certainly feel fortunate to be able to say that I genuinely feel inspired to go to my studio each day and work. Although on some level the same themes underpin all my collections, each season I am working with new ideas and inspirations. It is this constant variety and sense of innovation that makes me love my job.
The Very: You've been nominated a handful of times for Designer Of The Year at the British Fashion Awards among other incredible talent. Who are the designers you look up to most and why?
MW: I am always very proud to be nominated for awards, but particularly when considering the immense talent Britain has produced over the last few decades. When studying at Central St Martins I was aware of those who had recently graduated and were making waves within the industry already such as McQueen and Hussein Chalayan and I admire them for rejuvenating London Fashion Week and bringing the spotlight back here. They certainly paved the way and their legacy is still felt through an internationally held notion that Britain nurtures and develops raw talent like no one else.
The Very: Your collections are known equally for the amazing clothes as they are for their brightness. Is this all part of your imagination, or is to stand out?
MW: I grew up in Manchester, and in my eyes I perceived the environment I was living in was grey and stiflingly urban. I craved exoticism and in some ways found it through the late 80s, early 90s incredible rave scene that the city adopted at that time. I have always thought that street culture here has always had a very direct impact on fashion, and I'm sure my preoccupation with vivid colour came from that time in my life.
When I showed my first collection at London Fashion Week the prevailing trend was for minimalist, utilitarian clothing and it is true to say that I stood out at first for the fact that I burst onto the scene with a bright, colourful, feminine collection. As my collections have developed over the years the focus or silhouette has evolved but the use of print and colour have remained integral to my aesthetic.
The Very: Hypothetically, if you could forget about potential buyers and customers, what would be the one thing you'd like to go mad on with your designs?
MW: Despite being within an artistic industry, as always, there is a business element that must be considered when designing a collection. I think I manage the balance between commercialism and design quite well and am happy to push the boundaries, I don’t think anyone would class Matthew Williamson clothes as restrained in anyway! However, I think the key is to remain true to your original design rather than adopt passing trends - otherwise you will lose the very thing that people were attracted to the brand for in the first place.
The Very: I absolutely LOVED your collection with H&M. Will we see another collaboration with you and the high street?
MW: I really enjoyed the experience of working with H&M and was proud of the collections we produced. Since then I have re-launched the womenswear collection, Butterfly by Matthew Williamson, at Debenhams. I have worked with Debenhams for many years and am very pleased to be continuing collaborating with the high street and making the brand more accessible.
The Very: The high street has really exploded in terms of fashion credentials over the last few years. What are your thoughts on the growth of the high street?
MW: The British High Street is really something we should be proud of, its both innovative and inspiring and allows more people access to designer labels. There have been so many collaborations over the past few years and I think that they are a positive move, benefiting everyone.
The Very: You've only got jumpers and scarves for men on your website at the moment, but I want to invest in a really amazing pair of Matthew Williamson trousers or a shirt, are you focusing more on menswear at the moment?
MW: My first collection for men is a capsule collection and is a taste of what I hope it will become. After dipping my toe in the idea with the collection for H&M, I wanted to create luxury knitwear pieces and t-shirts in fine fabrics with the signature Matthew Williamson stamp on them. I am thinking of this first collection as the platform to begin broadening the collection to include shirting and tailoring in the next few seasons.
The Very: Menswear is heading into the feminine territory more and more now. What are your thoughts on this?
MW: I can definitely see cross over on both sides becoming more prevalent, and I welcome it. Fashion should be about experimentation and personal expression, so it seems wrong to put boundaries or absolutes on what you can wear.
The Very: I came to your AW10 show, it was amaze! There was loads of draping and crystals. What was the inspiration?
MW: This season was inspired by the idea of the modern matador which came about after I became interested in Pedro Almodovar’s films. They are deeply passionate and include the recurring theme of the strong, resilient female protagonist. I wanted the collection to reflect that sense of bold femininity whilst also referencing more traditional Spanish costume. An element of glamour was added through the use of Swarovski crystals, which were used to define the shoulder and as an update to the matador-like embellishment on the short jackets.
The silhouette focuses on the juxtaposition between draping and structure whilst the oversize ruffles and frills are designed to create unexpected volume. The mixture of fabrications, seen most predominately in the outerwear, is something I have been experimenting with for a few seasons now but in particular this season I took inspiration from the artist Judith Supine.
The Very: The incredibly sad loss of Alexander McQueen has left a huge hole in the British fashion industry, but to celebrate his life, is there any funny/touching stories of meeting him you can tell me?
MW: Like many others I always cited McQueen as a hugely inspirational leader of British fashion. As I mentioned earlier I particularly remember being a student at Central St Martins in the mid nineties and witnessing the huge impact his early shows had on London Fashion week. Fantastical and shocking at times, they were full of energy and showed the promise of his imaginative genius that was still to come.
From Autumn Winter 2010
From Spring Summer 2010
From Autumn Winter 2009
From Spring Summer 2009